If Italy has its capital in Rome, don't expect the Neapolitans to tip their hat to it. For Naples, or Napoli, is unashamedly the capital of the Mezzogiorno ... the south of Italy where things are done differently, and the laws passed down from Rome or at best interpreted but largely ignored.
This is a city where life is lived on the street, and the noise can at times be overwhelming ... though in a good way. Napoli is a long way south, and often seems to have as much of the Arab marketplace about it as the Italian - you're a long way from straitlaced Milan here. Food is sold and eaten on the street, with vendors purveying unimagined delights such as courgette flowers fried in delicate batter, and of course the pizza, which originated here.
Culturally too this is a melting pot. This city has been a heady mix of influences since early history. The ninth century BC settlement of Parthenope was overlaid by the Greek colony of Neapolis ('new city') and progressively settled by Romans, the Normans, Angevins, Spain and others. And being a port, it has always looked towards Tunis and north Africa.
Today you too can hop on a boat from the bustling port area, though you're more likely to be setting sail for Amalfi, Sorrento Ischia or Capri ... this coastline is unfairly endowed with beautiful towns, islands and resorts. Or head upland to the eerie lost cities of Herculaneum and Pompeii - this is a land where the ancient past lives side by side with the present.
To the left you'll find a selection of hotels, to get you in the mood
- see also our full listings of Naples hotels.