The folk of Modena like to think of their town as the 'spiritual capital' of Emilia. It's certainly a dig at their rival city of Bologna, but this is a city of substance - and quite distinct in feel from its larger neighbour. To outsiders, Modena is most famous for a couple of things - Balsamic vinegar and the late, great Luciano Pavarotti.
But this ancient city, which dates at least from the Iron Age (the Villanovans) is also known as the home of sports car manufacture in Italy: Lamborghini, Maserati, Bugatti, Ferrari, De Tomaso and Pagani all originated in Modena. It's a prosperous town, with thriving ceramics and knitwear industries on the fringes of the city. And it has a famous university, founded in 1175, and with traditional strengths in the law and medicine. The Italian version of Sandhurst or West Point is the Accademia Militare di Modena, in the Ducal Palace at Modena, and is where army officers come to train. Children and football fans might also like to know that it's the home of Panini collectable stickers.
Sights to place on your itinerary begin with the Cathedral of Modena and its attached belltower (campanile), begun under Matilda of Tuscany and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Gothic campanile dates from 1224. The Palazzo Ducale was begun by Francesco d'Este, of the all-powerful family which controlled much of north-eastern Italy during the Renaissance and beyond.
The Palazzo Comunale, on the Piazza Grande, is also UNESCO protected. A development of earlier buildings from the 11th century, it has the Torre dell'Orologio (clocktower) from the late 15th century. Inside you should see the Sala del Fuoco (Hall of Fire) with its frieze by Niccolo dell'Abate. The Museum Palace, meanwhile, has the city's main collections, including the Estense Library, the Museum of Medieval and Modern Art, the Risorgimento Museum and the Estense Gallery. This latter has works by Paolo Veronese, Tintoretto, Guido Reni, Cosme Tura, Correggio and the Carraccis.
Other sights include the opera house, the Teatro Comunale Modena - which is to be renamed in honour of Pavarotti, the town's most famous son. See too the botanic gardens at the Orto Botanico dell'Universita di Modena e Reggio Emilia - a delightful escape from the bustle of the town.
To the left you'll find a selection of Modena hotels, just to whet your appetite.
See also Modena hotels (full listings) and our Modena hotel map.