Genoa is one of that peculiarly modern breed of city ... those very old towns reborn and rediscovered during the latter years of the 20th century. Rather like Barcelona or Marseilles, Naples or Cadiz, this is a working class port that most tourists would have avoided like the plague during most of the last century.
But marvellous things have been happening to the historic, indeed ancient, city during the past few years. Stretching along the Ligurian coast of north-west Italy in the narrow strip between the mountains and the sea, Genoa stretches for more than two miles along the Golfo di Genova, with the hills swiftly rising behind into the lushness of Liguria.
The essence of Genoa is found in the Old Town, radiating out from the port in a jumble of little alleyways (caruggi). Anyone who bemoans the homogeneity of the chainstore shopping experience in their home town will love Old Genoa. The caruggi house bakeries, butchers, boutiques, chandlers, goldsmiths ... you might find a chic designer outlet rubbing shoulders with a greengrocer.
The Palazzo Ducale is a glorious remnant of the days when Genoa was ruled (like Venice) by a Doge or Duke. Check out the Via Garibaldi, a superb Renaissance thoroughfare with stucco work, medallians and sculpted facades. And the Palazzo Reale harks back to the days when powerful families built their own fiefdoms within the city. The rejuvenated dock area (Genoa was the 2004 European City of Culture, giving the city a huge boost) is a marvellous place to eat and drink nowadays. And the city has a host of other unexpected delights for the tourist, including the largest aquarium in Europe.
To the left you'll find a selection of Genoa hotels, just to whet your appetite.
See also Genoa hotels (full listings) and our Genoa hotel map.