Set on the Tigullio Gulf between Chiavari and Portofino, Rapallo dates back to (probably) the 8th century BC as an Etruscan settlement, but it was in the 1920s that it first found fame outside Italy, becoming a magnet for writers and artists who moved here drawn by the remarkable beauty of the bay. DH Lawrence, Max Beerbohm, Friedrich Nietzche, Ezra Pound and Ernest Hemingway were all visitors, though the Rapallo of today wouldn't be recognised by them now. The obscure little town is now home to fancy hotels and restaurants, though there is history aplenty once you travel into the old town.
Little cobbled streets unwind behind the Saline Gate (the only remaining gate of the old town walls). Sights include the Castello sul Mare, built in 1551 to defend against the frequent pirate attacks. There is the Castello di Punta Pagana (1631), the Torre Civica and Torre Fieschi (1473). See the Basilica of Saints Gervasius and Protasius from 1118, and the Church of St Francis of Assisi (1519). Also the Sanctuary of Nostra Signora di Montallegro (1558-1640) and the ruined Monastery of Valle Christi (13th century).
Head out from the town to explore the Parco Naturale Regionale di Portofino, the quite beautiful and protected Portofino headland. The peak of Monte di Portofino offers stunning views, and other high spots include Passo del Bacio, San Rocco, Portiofino Vetta and pietre Strette. Pretty hamlets include Ruta. There are neatly marked paths through the forests of holm oak, pine and wild thyme. Surprisingly under explored, it's a delight.
To the left you'll find a selection of hotels, to get you in the mood
- see also our full listings of Rapallo hotels.