A delightfully relaxed counterpart to its great medieval foe Florence, Siena has superb architecture and a quite unique feel, its spiralling narrow streets curling into the central Campo (not a square, this huge piazza is in the shape of a scallop shell and is the venue for the breathtaking horse race that is the twice-yearly Palio). Siena's Duomo, is a stunning 12th century cathedral, Gothic in design and in alternating layers of black and white brick. Next door sit the campanile and baptistery. With work by Pisano, Ghirlandaio, Donatello, Ghiberti and Jacopo della Quercia and a host of paintings by Duccio and others, it's a masterclass in medieval Italian art and architecture.
Other important sights are the Palazzo Pubblico on the Campo, and there are fine museums and galleries in the Museo Civico, Pinacoteca Nazionale, Museo dell'Opera del Duomo and Sant Maria della Scala. The curiously part rural aspect of the city, with fields even within the city walls, is a relic of the Black Death. Before 1348, Siena was a major European power, larger than Paris, but the plague cut the population from 100,000 to 30,000. Today the population still only stands at 60,000: this lovely city is the partly occupied house of a once mighty power.
Since the Renaissance, little has been built and little destroyed, and Siena is beautifully preserved. Make time to really enjoy this city, which doesn't wear its tourist colours quite so boldly as Pisa and Florence. A more relaxed town, it has terrific restaurants, cafes and bars and will reward a few day's gentle exploration.
To the left you'll find a selection of hotels, to get you in the mood
- see also our full listings of Siena hotels.