There are a number of things the first-time visitor to Venice 'knows' about this quite unique city. There are canals instead of roads, the city is gradually sinking into them, and Venice gets quite unbearably crowded with tourists. All of which are partly true, but there is a lot more to this remarkable city. Dig a little deeper, go off the beaten track and, dare we say it, avoid the tourist traps and the high season and you'll get a lot more from your visit.
The riches of empire built a city of marvellous buildings: the Doge's Palace, Basilica di San Marco, countless sumptuous churches, and a collection of museums and galleries (the Accademia, the Ca'Rezzonico and the Museo Correr to name but three) housing the very best of the Renaissance and beyond. Venice became an ever richer prize for the invader then, and Napoleon's scourging progress across Europe was never going to miss such a gem. Following his sacking of the city in the nineteenth century, La Serenissima entered a long period of sad decline.
But Venice was rediscovered in the late 1800s, first by the artists and painters, who were enchanted by the mixture of romance and decay (think Thomas Mann's Death in Venice) and then by mass tourism. Who can blame us? It's a beautiful city, but at the dawn of the 21st century, with visitors vastly outnumbering a steadily declining population, it can be overwhelmed by tourists. But head off the beaten track in Venice and there are delights to be discovered.
To the left you'll find a selection of hotels, to get you in the mood
- see also our full listings of Venice hotels.